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The unhurried rise of Austria’s second-largest city,Graz,is bolstered by its unique approach to tourism and the active involvement of residents,making it a model for sustainable urbanism worldwide.
Austrian cities are renowned for their landmarks and centuries-long histories,but the former Habsburg stronghold Graz doesn’t compete with imperial-laced Vienna and princely splendour Salzburg. Instead,this southern city thrives on being off the radar,with a Mediterranean style that extends beyond its facades to a relaxed way of life. Graz embraces a slow and sustainable pace,prioritising preservation and putting the community at the fore.
That’s not to say that landmark sites in Graz are lacking;it proudly holds UNESCO World Cultural Heritage and UNESCO City of Design titles,protecting its historical assemblage,including the Italian Renaissance Landhaus,the spiral staircase in the Burg,Graz Cathedral,the mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II,and the enduring Clocktower – spared by the most zealous of visitors,the Napoleonic forces.
A former European Capital of Culture,Graz enhanced its arts scene with the otherworldly Kunsthaus Graz modern art museum as its symbol. In its modernisation,six universities infused a timeworn city with young scientific,artistic,technological and economic innovation. Moreover,the city’s efforts to promote green living and local gastronomy have earned it the “Culinary Capital of Austria” accolade.
Sustainability isn’t a greenwashing venture here;it is interwoven into almost every fabric of daily life,where residents actively shape the city’s development. I returned to meet the people behind the growing number of social enterprises and community initiatives,from community cafes to wine cultivation,family-run hotels,and social democratic arts movements—the makers of modern-day Graz as a sustainable travel destination.
What makes Graz a sustainable city?
In Austria’s Second Green City
Graz is just 2.5 hours away from Vienna – the green capital of Austria – but its eco-basis is similar. It,too,reserves over half of its urban spread for urban greening and nature conservation,with a bundle of accessible green spaces,including the northeast loop of the Schlossberg and the expanse of Stadtpark with its Burggarten enclave,Augarten to the south,Volksgarten to the west,and the promenade banks of the River Mur.
Peace in nature in Graz’s Burggarten.
Waterside life at Murinsel Graz.
The implementation of environmental protection is integrated into urban planning and transportation systems,with the “move2zero” project a commitment to decarbonising the urban public bus system. The city’s public transportation fleet of 85 trams and over 170 buses includes battery electric and green hydrogen buses,significantly reducing carbon emissions even as routes expand,and the old town is car-free.
All tram lines run via the main squares,Herrengasse to Jakominiplatz,connecting Graz city to surrounding nature,and the Altstadt-Bim (Old Town Tram) is free in the city centre limits (each stop marked by an ‘Altstadtbim gratis’ (free) sticker.
Graz is a bike friendly city.
Still,Graz is a walkable city. Hiking routes connect surrounding high plateaus and city-hugging peaks and 13 cycle routes weave 800km of paths in the “city of short distances” to Graz day trip destinations like Schloss Eggenberg and Arnold Schwarzenegger’s birthplace,Thal. Simultaneously,Graz’s green-loving outdoor enthusiasts form a core community in the city.
Schloss Eggenberg,accessible from Graz city centre via public transport.
Eva Berghoferowns the newly opened community-focused cafe Coffee Ride– a caffeinated cubby-hole hangout that’s become the go-to stop for the city’s two-wheelers. “Come here,and you will never sit alone for the whole day,” Eva says.
Not only does she run the shop single-handedly,but she also organises everything from speed-dating bike events to weekly Sunday coffee rides. “A coffee ride is a bike ride with friends. It’s not about who is the fastest or a training ride,but it’s about communicating,socialising and having coffee and cake. I think the sense of community in Graz is getting stronger.”
Stop by cafe Coffee Ride in the historical centre of Graz.
Eva Berghofer,owner of Coffee Ride.
The bike themed and bike community centered Coffee Ride cafe.
Diversity,Community and Opportunity
The Lend and Gries districts were once seen as the sketchy side of the Mur,but in the regeneration of this former red-light and entertainment district opposite the historic centre,a community is reviving its 19th-century beginnings. Immigrants from Yugoslavia and Turkey settled here,bringing together multiple cultures,cuisines,communities,and commerce.
Shopping in Graz is part of a full-circle initiative. Walk along Lend’s central vein,Mariahilferstrasse,for a thread of Fairtrade,charity and social-initiative design shops selling all kinds of handmade and upcycled items from fashion,jewellery and homeware,with a focus on employment of diverse and disadvantaged groups.
Every product in Tag.werkis made by its young workforce. Offline Retail Projectupcycles vintage wares while giving those struggling with addiction access to the workforce. HERZlichLadenoffers individually made products by those aged 50,helping them return to work. Others,like the Zerum concept store,stock only ecological fashion and accessories.
tag.werk – one of the social-initiative design shops in the Lend neighbourhood.
LENDWIRBEL – The Association for Neighbourhood Urban Development.
In a city where nations from 160 countries reside,its community is further rooted in the diversity of nationality and faith. St. Andrä Churchin the Gries neighbourhood (across the river from the historic centre) is not only a multi-cultural space that includes masses for the African and Latino communities but a canvas for contemporary art installations – an idea executed by former parish priest Hermann Gletter inspired by a French tradition from the 1960s sparking dialogue between modern art and the church,challenging traditional Christian iconography and meaning.
Standing within a nave surrounded by 13 chromatic and social statement windows designed by Austrian artists,a column and alter made of mirror pieces and a Crucifixion of Jesus figure with a door handle replacing a missing arm,the parish’s Catholic Pastor Alois Kölblexplains how art helps mend communities.
“The idea of this church is that it’s not only a sacred place but a public one,where people can come to raise questions that are not only specifically Christian and of faith but also important to have a sense of life. It’s here where I feel I can connect people who may not feel connected but who can feel at home.” Every Sunday,there is a morning German mass,an English mass (Nigerian English) at noon,a Spanish mass at 4 pm,and a monthly international mass.
“Herman did not always democratically do things,but they let him do it because he was authentic as a priest,because of his social work and because he connected migrants – that’s what I wanted to continue,” adds Alois.
Catholic Pastor Alois Kölbl at St. Andrä Church in the Gries neighbourhood.
Artwork in the The Dominican Chapel by Austrian painter,Otto Zitko.
Art windows of St. Andrä church.
Despite the gentrification and growth of former run-down areas,Graz protects its historical foundations. British-Austrian walking tour guide Helen Petermandltook us on a trail through the landmarks and hidden corners of the historic streets of Graz,detailing the city’s beginnings during the Holy Roman German Empire to now.
Helen also lamented the potential loss of history without local enterprise. “It has a real impact on the houses here that need to be historically preserved,which can be when businesses and shops are willing to pay for these buildings. Graz is luckier than other cities because people still shop here in the inner city. These buildings are protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.”
Tour guide Helen Petermandl at the snowman puddle sculpture in Graz,which symbolises the transience of time.
Shops abound in the historic Sporgasse street in Graz.
Innovation in Preserving Tradition
The commitment to preserving cultural heritage is bolstering local innovation. Philipp Florianis a fourth-generation Hotelier at the family-owned Park Hotel.His great-grandparents,August and Maria,purchased the property in 1934.
Philipp believes in social sustainability and always focuses on people. “We want the guest to feel the family,the history,and the employees. That’s our USP. There are always more beautiful hotels with bigger TV screens and bathtubs,but the people always make the difference,” he says.
The hotel’s advantage is its small size – there are 68 rooms,compared to other hotels in the city that have around 150 or which jostle with chain brands. His father invested in a spa 20 years ago as a place to meet others,and Philipp has introduced ecological measures,including discontinuing room mini bars – despite a snack and beverage machine on the first floor,the bar is a focal social centre. The Zur Goldenen Birn fine-dining restaurant,with its rotating seasonal,regional menu,is one of Graz’s top-rated.
“80% of guests are locals. That’s what my parents wanted to achieve. A place where everyone comes together. I hope family-owned and private businesses remain – it’s important for every place. In the end,my family are not only investors here,but it’s also our home. We grew slowly over the generations,so we are part of the city,and the city is part of us. You go through hard times,but you stay here.”
Meeting Philipp Florianm the fourth-generation Hotelier at Park Hotel.
Family values remain at Park Hotel.
Park Hotel is next to the student Geidorf neighbourhood lined with local enterprise,charity and Fairtrade shops.
Family-run revival of tradition is also evident in its wine industry,bringing Graz closer to the region’s rich vinicultural legacy since it’s not only Vienna making wine within the city limits. Wine Grower Gabi Blaschitzshows us around her family vineyard on the slopes of the Kehlberg hill in the west of Graz. “We found documents that wine has been growing here since 1124” as we look at a Buschenschank wine menu from 1925. “Our wine is growing within the city limits of Graz. Normally,you have it in the landscape of Southern Styria or Vulkanland.” Here,the Graz city wine,Falter Ego,is harvested.
Visiting the vineyard on the slopes of the Kehlberg hill in the west of Graz.
Wine Grower Gabi Blaschitz shows us a Buschenshank wine menu from 1925,served on this spot.
The man behind Falter Ego is renowned Winemaker Hannes Sabbathi– a 4th generation family vintner who made his first vintage at age 16. Although wine has been produced in the region since the Roman era,Hannes wants to focus on city vineyards:“It’s important to show the different soils in our region that is 12-14 million years old. You can see the difference between the wines from the region,the village,and the city vineyard,and we want to show that it’s possible. 2018 was the first release – not many cities can say they have their own wine.” Not only that,but the vineyard’s existence also helps protect an endangered butterfly species:the “Falter” in the Falter Ego name translates to butterfly in German.
Winemaker Hannes Sabbathi introduces us to the Graz city wine,Falter Ego.
In a country whose repertoire of classical music commands audiences daily,Graz has modernised its approach to both the art form and bringing people together. Mathis Huber,director of the annual classical music festival Styriarte, is continuing the work of late conductor Nikolaus Harnoncourt,who founded the festival in 1985. Mathis has modernised the concept. “We often play musical formats that are 100 or 200 years old. We must be experimental and find what the audience wants,” he says. From bicycle concerts to shorter shows,smaller and more intimate venue spaces and pay-what-you-can ticket prices,“it’s a festival of social politics – it should be a great artistic event,but we also have to be inclusive. Diversity isn’t a phrase – it’s our life.”
Mathis Huber,director of the annual classical music festival Styriarte in the office and venue space,Palais Attems.
Sustainable Gastronomy in Austria’s Culinary Capital
Graz’s title as the “Culinary Capital of Austria” is well-deserved. The city boasts a vibrant food scene characterised by a robust farm-to-fork culture. Local farmers’ markets within the city boundaries provide fresh,organic produce;Graz’s biggest on Kaiser-Josef-Platz is open Monday through Saturday from 6 am to 1 pm,and the jostle on Lendplatz operates the same hours.
Graz’s biggest farmers market on Kaiser-Josef-Platz.
Culinary delights at Lendplatz.
While Carinthia holds the title of Austria’s first Slow Food Movement,Styria and Graz uphold a similar mantel. Look for the red snail logo sticker on the doors of establishments,which are certified for protecting traditional cooking crafts and upholding local producers. The commitment to reducing food waste and promoting a conscious consumption culture is widespread. The Long Table of Graz mass dining event is one example,with a mandate that food must be locally sourced.
The city’s approach to food sustainability is also evident in initiatives like Bo Suppewhose daily soup menu is made using locally sourced ingredients;Graz roastery Paul&Bohne,dedicated to sustainable coffee from bean to cup;Waldherr Bakery,Austria’s first organic bakery serving organic brotfor three-decades;and Pane,a bakery that sells bread from the previous day at half price. Austria’s oldest organic store originated in Graz – Bioladen Matzer,near The Park Hotel in the Sankt Leonhard neighbourhood.
Freshly made soups daily at hole-in-the-wall Bo Suppe.
Austria’s oldest organic store,Bioladen Matzer,originated in Graz.
While businesses in Graz exemplify the city’s dedication to sustainable gastronomy,Jonathan Stralleggerdelivers – literally. He founded Graz’s sustainable food delivery service Velofood,whose 250-strong team bikes up to 800 daily deliveries – an eco-alternative to Austrian delivery mainstays,Lieferando and Foodora.
“I knew food delivery could be much more sustainable. The idea was to create a food delivery service where we only go with bicycles,the restaurants use only biodegradable and reusable packaging,and where we work more with restaurants that we know take care of the food and ingredients,” says Jonathan. “The people to whom sustainability is important,they know us in Graz.”
Jonathan Strallegger,founder of Graz’s first sustainable food delivery service,Velofood.
Graz – The Model City
“The best thing about Graz is the size – it’s big enough to be a city and small enough to be a village,with the best combination of everything.” Eva Berghofer said during our coffee meeting. Everyone I met remarked on the ideal combination of parks and promenades,centuries-old history in buildings,cultural spaces,renowned restaurants and access to nature without needing a car or travelling long distances.
Combine that with the melting-pot innovation of a 300,000 population mix of multi-generations,immigrants and 60,000 students,alongside their collective commitment to sustainability,and you can say Graz is a model city,not just a perfectly sized one. A city where the pride of its residents has grown a sense of community and preservation that makes visitors immediately sense that it is a very different and precious place.
Hotelier Philipp Florian reflects on the future of tourism in the city. “It should always be made together with the locals,who need to support it. I don’t want Graz to become a museum where there are beautiful buildings and no people because they’ve all moved out. It’s not the future I see. It’s important people still live here;that makes the city stay alive.”
Graz is a model city,not just a perfectly sized one.
Travel in the Sustainable City of Graz
Want to dig into Graz responsibly? These guides have you covered.
This article was in partnership with Graz Tourism,looking deeper into the city and how it tackles visitor footfall and its future urban development. All opinions about sustainability in Graz remain my own;Borders of Adventure maintains full editorial control of the content published on this site.
